Deryk's Trip to Iraq in 2002
Gallery
of Video Stills from Deryk's Trip to Baghdad
Photographs of
Deryk's Sculpture
Report from Deryk in Baghdad
(Oct 25, 2002 -- Part Two)
I could easily spend another three months here as I
want to follow the project all the way through to the
end. But I know that is not possible and that I have
been assured that they will supervise it for me. One
of Iraq's greatest sculptors has said that he will take
on the responsibility and that I have nothing to worry
about. He is a very good man. His english is very good
and he has taught me a great deal about bronze and also
about being an artist. He is from the old school. He
is seventy five. The history of bronze casting started
in Iraq. No real surprise there really, but it is interesting
that it was lost and it was Mr. Mohamad Rennie who revived
it and brought it back in the early fifties.He has travelled
the world and laughs at how today they pour bronze as
if they were dressed for a walk on the moon. He feels
that the smoke and danger of the liquid bronze is part
of the creative process and should not be isolated from
the artists hands and legs. He has the scars to prove
it! I am learning so much and have much more to learn.
Just when I think I have the process figured out, I
see something that puzzles me. Part of the process that
doesn't make sense and they have to take me back a few
steps and make me understand what I am looking at. It
is so primitive but they can cast anything here. Anything.
Material that has been used for centuries is still
claimed to be the best and strongest. For example they
use a part of the date tree for strands of fibre to
make the mold stronger. They say it is still the best.
Even the automotive shops in the area around the foundry
have an amazing ability to take everything apart, repair
or replace the broken part and get it all together again.
Something with a million pieces such as a transmission
is simply taken apart on the ground beside everything
else that is going on in the street. If they can't get
the part they have a thousand little shops with lathes
that machine the part to precise requirements and presto.
They have the part they need. They are so resourceful
and creative. Nothing is wasted. Nothing. Welding shops
are everywhere. They can fix anything and do fix it
instead of buying a new part. They put our recycling
to shame. And they are up to speed with computers and
electronic things as well. They are just as comfortable
in fixing the inner workings of these things as they
are about building a new muffler from scraps.
The people still flock to the streets at night and
along the river. Sometimes there is gunfire in the city
at night. In the evening, I was sitting having a picnic
by the Tigres, and we watched hot bullets stream over
our heads into the sky. I don't know where they fall
to the ground but I assume they do somewhere and are
harmless. The true meaning of "surreal" struck
me. We drank our tea.
There is a younger, more adventurous group that comes
out at night and they know how to have fun. They hang
on the sides of cars and trucks and shout and sing.
They are full of life and daring. All males
I have been to some parts of Baghdad that are much
more upscale than most of the areas one sees. The media
generaly reports that these places are so exotic and
rich. I had a delicious icecream cone at one of these
very nice restuarants and it still struck me as being
very rough by our standards. There are mercedes and
other nice cars in these parts but not the way the media
portrays it for us. When you walk around the corner
to the side streets you still find modest homes by our
standards with scruffy children playing simple games
on the dusty road
Chicken Cordon Blue in one of these "nice' restuarants
is around three or four dollars. It is beyond the reach
of most Iraqi's. You can fill up the tank of your car
for one dollar. Half that price if you get the cheap
stuff. A taxi ride around the city costs about fifty
cents for an average trip of twenty minutes. I had a
small pizza the other night and it cost me about one
dollar and fifty cents.
There is so much more hope here than in previous trips.
But also the cloud of war is above them at all times.
Nothing new. Many Iraqi's have had this over their heads
most of their adult lives. The bombing has not stopped
since the gulf war. They have a tremendous spiritual
connection to God. They know who he is. And it gives
them strength
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